Visit Levuka: old Fiji capital | The Family Without Borders

The Family Without Borders

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Lovely old Levuka town

Fiji: Women in Levuka (Ovalau Island)

There are a bit more than a 1,000 people living in this Levuka town nowadays and for few days we met maybe 5 white faces. Can you imagine that in 1870s there were 52 hotels full of Europeans?

To get to Levuka, on the Ovalau island east of the main island of Fiji, you have to start your trip on the lovely, lively market in Suva (the capital of Fiji). Once a day, there is a big, comfy bus driving for few hours along the coast, then waiting for another hour in the harbour, then standing on the ferry for another 45 minutes and then again driving for an hour or so. We decided about this trip on some sunny morning in Suva and we were lucky enough still to get the bus. Trip was long but easy: you know you have to stuck to the bus and you will e safe. During the trip: a lot of time to talk to people in the bus and on the ferry. Contacts – nothing more valuable on our trip.

We heard from somebody during last weeks that this Levuka is worth visiting. But we had no idea what a story stands behind it! Everything started in 1822, when David Whippy, young American, son of the see captain, ended up in this village. Very fast traders, missionaries, shipwrights, speculators, and vagabonds found the place nice and comfy. Levuka already in 1840s became an important port and trading post, and a principal European settlement on the Pacific Ocean. (although I read in some diaries that „not all the Europeans were of high character“) First 30 people, made together with wives a slaves 200 and in 1860s already 600 Europeans lived there! Everything was „the first“ here: the first church, the first store, the first bank, post office, school, private members club, hospital, town hall… And the newspaper! In 1869 „Fiji Times“ started to be published daily and the newspaper claims to be “The First Newspaper Published In The World Every Day”. Not sure if it’s true, doesn’t matter, it’s still exciting to have it in your hands!

After Fiji was annexed as a British colony in 1874, Levuka remained the capital until 1877, when the administration was moved to Suva (in practise only in 1882). There are high cliffs surrounding Levuka and the colonial government was afraid not to have enough space or expansion. My god, just imagine 52 hotels on this little road! Today there is a bakery, little internet cafe, few shops and all the „the first one“ signs. Nothing from the old fame. Hmmmm… almost nothing. You just walk and feel the past. And again (Fiji!!) everybody is so nice and smiling. – What problems do you have here? – you ask the police men. – Bula!!!!! (hello) Problems? Oh, sometimes somebody collects kava (kind of drug) form a neighbour field instead of his. That’s it – they answer.

To see more we decided to go up the hill: there is 199 steps on the Niukaubi hill, a lovely spot above the town. Singing songs with local girls, watching rugby match with local boys (rugby is THE thing here). One immediately feel „included“.

The sweet surprise was a library: we came in, while just checking everything else in the town, and we got lost for few days. Who would ever think that our girls can spend few hours on their own or with local kids (I mean: without us) – just watching book after book and listening to some fairy tails? I see, our few small book, which we have in our backpacks, don’t fulfil the needs! ;) Thanks to it also we had a lot of time for reading. About the Ku Klux Klan in Fiji in 1870s and all the „blackbirding“ (kidnapping Pacific islanders and forcing them into plantation labour), about the PAFCO (Pacific Fishing Company), founded by Japanese in Levuka, freezing and shipping canned tuna to Europe and Canada and employing most of the island, about all the women and all the little projects of the island. So so so nice to read so much!

Levuka is also full of churches: the first X church, the first Y church, the first of church Z… The way to people in Fiji is the way through churches, so sometimes we were even of 3 different masses a day. Just to see! Just to give the peace sign and to see the differences. Oh God (GOD!!), how much money those churches are making….

We really felt in love with Levuka a bit. So small, so calm in the way, but from those stones you can read so much. We are still wondering if Levuka has a potential to be as exciting in the future as it has been in the past? And also how could such a power (colonial power) come out of this tiny place and stay for so long in the whole region? Once you are in Fiji, leave a beach and snorkeling for a while and visit Levuka!

Our first book is out!

We have published our first book (for now just in Polish:) about our Central America Trip.
See, read and order here »


  • Posted August 26, 2014 at 07:40 | Permalink

    I really respect you for your travelling style of life! I wish you all the best with your journeys! One day, when I have husband and children I also want to show them the beauty of the world :)
    Best regards for all your family!

    • Anna Alboth
      Posted August 26, 2014 at 08:55 | Permalink

      Thank you for your comment, Daria! Good luck with a nice husband ;))

  • Posted August 26, 2014 at 14:07 | Permalink

    Hey guys! Me and my husband enjoy reading your blog. We haven’t got kids yet, but we love travelling and staying ‘close to the nature’ (we haven’t crossed the oceans yet, though). I am wondering, how do you find information of all these tiny and beautiful places that are far from ‘normal turistic paths’? How do you plan your trip when you are there? Would love to hear some tips :) Good luck and keep going! You are a beautiful family!

    • Anna Alboth
      Posted August 27, 2014 at 09:07 | Permalink

      Hey Ilona! We dont plan much in advance, once we are in the country – we talk to people and fly with the wind (for example go to the bus stop and just take any bus ;). Sometimes also some people (readers too!) tell us about some place. In the local shops or libraries we also read a lot, watch postcards, albums and go “there”!!

  • Posted August 28, 2014 at 18:39 | Permalink

    This looks like such a great time! Love the pics :D

  • Marta
    Posted September 8, 2014 at 21:09 | Permalink

    Hi! I has been reading your blog for some time and I really enjoy your stories, pictures and travels! But please, tell me one thing: you’re now so close to Hawaii – would you like to visit this place? I know Hawaii only from one TV series and I was wondering how looks the real life there. I fell in love with the views of the Hawaii shown in the series and I think it’s worth to see… But I won’t learn the truth by myself (in near future at least…) so I ask you for an answer ;). I believe your description would be the perfect one :D
    All the best for the whole Family Without Borders!

  • Jannette Hennings
    Posted October 11, 2016 at 06:49 | Permalink

    I was born and bred in Levuka but now reside in NZ. You have described Levuka at its best and it is a town of its own character. I read your write up with interest and am sure you enjoyed your stay. You have taken some awesome photographs and am tempted to follow your journey. All the best to you all and stay safe on your travels.


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